We couldn’t resist returning to Cartagena, as we had fallen in love with this magnificent city. We decided to stay for just over a week to visit the places we hadn’t had time before and to revisit our treasured haunts.

Club de Pesca were silent on the radio regarding a berth for us but Stephen being the true pushy captain, tied up to the fuel dock and visited the marina office. They were delighted to see him and instantly found us one of the few berths left. We were told that we had returned in time for festival week in Cartagena and we felt fortunate that they had space for us.

Naturally our first visit was to Bar Tobacco Ron as Stephen had run out of cigars and on his last packet of pipe tobacco.

We were welcomed like long lost friends and very quickly Stephen was in the large humidor choosing his cigars. The look on his face with the first draw was priceless. Stephen has got a liking for Colombian cigars, mainly the large ones, which we call “ two G&T cigars. He is constantly approached by the street sellers selling the fake Cuban and Colombian cigars. This may have something to do with several cigars poking out of his top pocket! 

We spent many days and many miles strolling by foot around the city, people watching and soaking up the atmosphere. Our dismal lack of Spanish is a problem to us but most people here are thrilled that we have a go. Girls and women are very classy in most things that they wear, wearing very high heels with very few of them, able to walk in them. They are confident in their bodies no matter what the shape with dark hair cascading down their backs. There is always rhymic music playing on every corner and the dance movements of the people of Colombia is part of their culture. Young and old dance seductively in the streets, bars and in the plazas with huge smiles on their faces. We visited the famous Havana Cafe to drink Mojitos and to listen to a live band, surrounded by people gyrating to the catchy music. Street performers and thespian dancers, adorned in traditional costumes entertained us, tourists. One street performer mimics people walking past and obviously noticed us walking hand in hand, awaiting a time when we would drop hands to walk around a tree or such like. He placed his hand in Stephen’s and walked a few paces until Debbie noticed that her husband was cosy with a strange man! Hysterical. We love having cocktails in a plaza watching the light go and people milling around. One such bar, Hendricks, made the best cocktails at tourist prices. An elderly gentleman serenaded us with a child’s guitar. Debbie will never complain about Stephen’s singing again. We wouldn’t look at one another and how we kept straight faces was torture.

At night the prostitutes arrive on the dark street corners, scantily clad, on the look out for the police. There are a number of “Crossover” clubs on the outskirts of the old city and now and again we passed beautifully dressed young men with impeccable  makeup. An act has just been passed for single sex adoption but legalised marriage is not accepted as yet. As a Catholic  country, the Colombians are open minded and accepting of others. This is reflected on their history with the Spanish Inquisition, which punished people for being “different”. 

The city is exceptionally clean with a band of men cleaning up during the day and throughout the night. The Cartagenians are tidy minded and use the bins and recycling methods without a second thought.

We have used the odd taxi to get to historic or well known places and they do not have the “knowledge”. Stephen often produced our map and suggested how to get to our destination. Overall they are careful drivers but use their horn frequently.

Apart from shopping, we returned for some more of Cartagena’s culture and history. We enjoyed our visit to the Zenu Gold museum with it’s testimony to the Sinú culture. The intricate craftsmanship of the adornments based on a hierarchical society was exquisite, many of which were buried with the owner. Wearing these pieces showed others how important that individual was in society. The designs were based on the patterns of weaving, used for making headresses, baskets, platters etc. Women were extremely important in this culture as they symbolised the giver of new life. They were also blamed for the weather and poor crop yield! In contrast the Emerald museum was dismal and felt like a chance for a sale. Our English guide barely spoke any English and what little she did was hard to understand. We were whizzed through the museum and then into the larger sales room. No, we didn’t purchase.

Near to Club de Pesca is the Roman bridge which links us with the old city and nearby in the Calle Real de Manga is the Moorish mansion with splendid architecture and a garden full of mosaics.

Around every corner and in each plaza there are sculptures relating to religion, slavery, the artisans and fun. In San Pedro Square, Las Chatarras represent the various craftsmen of the city; in Santo Domingo Plaza the exaggerated form of La gorda Gertrudis by Fernando Botero as a gift to the city are just a few examples.

Debbie’s love of history and the fact she did “Renaissance and Reformation” in her European History ‘A’ level encouraged her to seek out the Inquisition Palace, nicely restored with some of the most important samples of the colonial period. The building was established as the Court of the Holy Office in 1610, investigating, processing and punishing 900 people over a period of 200 years, for practices that were heretical to the Catholic faith. Five were burnt at the stake for witchcraft. It never acknowledged innocents. It was abolished on November the 11th,1811 when Cartagena became independent. The tribunal’s files and documents were symbolically set on fire and the Inquisitors were expelled. Today the building signifies tolerance and a healthy coexistence of it’s people. 

Cartagena celebrated Independence Day whilst we were visiting. Along the seafront a huge parade with the contestants of Miss Colombia displayed on  “Disney type” floats. We found a great place with an aerial view from the city wall ramparts, milling with locals and fellow travellers. We were warned that water, foam and bangers were part of the frivolities. Naturally we got armed with a turbo foam canister and joined in with the mayhem. Stephen was particularly wicked and chased people down the street, including foam backgrounds for photographs. We ended up in our favourite bar to the delight of the guys, laughing as we were doused in foam. What a way to celebrate their independence and remember their dead with fun and all nationalities joining together.

In our previous Cartagena blog we talk about the coffee and Stephen’s quest was to find “Coffee and……….”, a coffee/cigar and artisan shop in El Laguito. The gentleman proprietor spoke magnificent English and we spent an interesting time there spending more Pesos. He suggested a local cafe for lunch who made the best Seafood Stew......a good recommendation, La Muelle.

Cartagena visit would not be complete without a visit to our friend, Cesar to trim Debbie's locks again. The salon positively vibrated with music and Cesar and his employees were dancing to the beat. The best experience Debbie has ever had in a hair salon.

Once again it was time again to leave Cartagena and with fond farewells we left the marina under a leaden sky, with lighting and thunder cracking off over the city. We were heading to Shelter Bay marina in Panama to receive our new part for our water maker and to catch up with Bubbles, Atmos and Babe again.

Adios Colombia!