At 22.45 on Tuesday, 5th of March (local time - the photo shows Universal Time and we were in UT-5 hours) Amelie crossed the equator together with her co-virgin crossees, Stephen and Debbie. The log was duly noted and Neptune's ceremony was booked for 10am the following morning. Collecting buckets of water in the dark, perching on the transom and feeling tired is unsafe and we wanted to savour the moment.

We've had a great 4 nights in Marigot Bay, Saint Lucia but now it's time to head off across the Caribbean Sea to the San Blas and Panama. We won't get wifi again until around 13 February when we get to Shelter Bay Marina so communication between now and then will be emails on our zap email .

Wish us fair winds and we'll be in touch soon.

After a storming sail from St. Lucia to Porvenir in the San Blas Islands, where we beat 200nm in a day in Amelie, we checked in with immigration, navigation and the police. They were based in one house, all the rooms were bare except for a table, 3 chairs and a filing cabinet. No curtains, carpets and bare lightbulbs gave the formalities an austere atmosphere. Formalities were carried out in Spanish, not understood by Stephen, so sign language and broken English got us through. At the end of this process, our passports were stamped, Panamanian cruising permit issued together with the ZARPE (permission to travel to the next port) and relieved of $300.

We spent 10 days in Western Hollandes Cays, snorkelling (as diving is not permitted), partied onboard Amelie and other Oysters, celebrated Stephen's birthday on the beach watching the sunset and dancing to music. Life there was spent watching the Pelicans fishing around the yachts with the back drop of waving Coconut palms on the shore and of course, sun all day. The Kuna Indians regularly visited the Oysters, paddling in their dugouts, selling lobsters and fish for the BBQ plus their handmade Molas.

Saying goodbye to Paradise we sailed overnight to Shelter Bay marina, formely the US naval base, Fort Sherman (when the US operated the Panama Canal). We had a busy few days working on Amelie during the day and partying with the rest of the OWR fleet in the evening and at Fort San Lorenzo, where we had a magnificent Pirates' party and lunch, overlooking the Chagres river, entertained by a local dance troupe.

Yesterday we did a trip to Castries, capital of Saint Lucia. The picture above is the Cathedral, Church of the Immaculate Conception, and we shared a few quiet reflections in the beautiful interior, and lit a candle for Mum.

Much of Castries is modern have been virtually destroyed three times between 1900 and 1948 by devastating fires.

A major destination for cruise ships, there was one there yesterday with three more expected today.

Compared to St Johns, capital of Antigua, the city was a little disappointing.