Vancouver City
City Life - Vancouver
Early hours of a weekend morning we prepared Amelie for the trip to Vancouver.
The currentsaround these islands are strong so it is imperative to get them right. Added to this we had the delight of seeing dawn over the mountain backdrop and inquisitive fur seals checking us out.Passing numerous islands as we left Vancouver Island encouraged us to return to explore some more. The island ferries start early and we were on the alert for getting out of their way. We had been warned about the danger of the numerous tugs with their towed craft. Each year, several people die attempting to sail between the vessels. As we approached Vancouver, we sighted five Orcas (Killer Whales) who swam close to Amelie. The distinctive tall dorsal fin and the silky black and white pigmentation, with it's huge conical head, made our day. One of Debbie's bucket list wishes came true.
We anchored in False Creek which is very close to Granville Island and downtown Vancouver. Constant traffic passed by in the form of Dragon boats and Aquabuses. We were surrounded by skyscrapers and the British Columbian Arena. Early to bed that night and ready for some R&R the following day.
Vancouver City is easy to explore on foot, so off we went with a map and walked through the streets to the Waterfront and then to Coal Harbour to visit Karin on Bubbles, later returning to celebrate Leo's return from Holland.
We became tourists and explored Yaletown and Gastown, enjoying the examples of native art and craft from the First Nation tribes. Stephen treated himself to a wet shave in an old fashioned barbers and came out looking like an entirely different husband!
Yaletown is a trendy neighbourhood with many places to eat and drink, top end home decor establishments, fine art galleries and many beauty salons throughout the district. This was the old warehouse area with many of the old buildings remaining housing the afore mentioned and exclusive apartments.
It is said that Vancouver was born in Gastown by a river boat captain known as John "Gassy Jack” Deighton setting up a saloon on the Burrard Inlet in 1867. The whisky and his tales were popular with the loggers and mill workers, honouring his liberal measures by naming the area after him. Gastown developed into a commercial and shipping hub, with the brick and stone warehouses built after the great fire in 1886 still standing today. It is known as an eclectic neighbourhood, offering modern and heritage side by side. Gastown is a National Historic Site, designated in 2009. The street lamps are unique together with the famous steam clock that chimes like Big Ben, every fifteen minutes. It is operated by steam power taken from the city's underground steam-heating system. We had supper in the revolving restaurant at the top of the Vancouver Look Out, overlooking the city and suburbs of Vancouver, travelling through 360 degrees every hour. As the light dimmed, lights illuminated the city from the trees, churches, cranes, the port and hotels, transforming Vancouver into a completely different city.
Anchoring in False Creek we were only a short dinghy ride from Granville Island with it's world famous public market. As you entered the vast building your senses were engulfed with the aromas and fragrances of flowers, fruit, vegetables, meats, cheese, fish, coffee and baked goods. Everywhere you looked colourful pyramids of succulent fruits and cheeses tempted the shoppers. We chose to select a few things for a gourmet lunch back on Amelie, slowly wandering around the various stands, soaking up the atmosphere and parting with our Canadian dollars. We did however baulk at the dressed crab which was $60 for a 100g. A repeat visit happened a few days later when we hosted lunch for Leo and Karin on board Amelie.
During our stay, we took a courtsey bus to the Capilano Suspension Bridge Park, enjoying the nature tours regarding the temperate West Coast rainforest ecosystem, on the rainforest side of the suspension bridge. The Capilano Suspension Bridge is 137m long and 70m high, very wobbly and the original bridge was constructed in 1889. It was the dream and work of the earliest pioneers arriving in Vancouver. In 2006 a 46 ton tree fell during a storm and collapsed onto the bridge. the tree snapped in half but the bridge held firm. Nevertheless the park was out of action for a few months whilst the bridge was rebuilt for safety sake. The park had a treetops walk via several mini suspension bridges and walkways along the sheer granite cliff faces. The views of the canyon were heart-stopping. Throughout the park we came upon carvings and totem poles, carved many years ago by the First Nation family that were paramount to the organisation of the park.
A busy week was finished off by fuelling up and motoring back to Vancouver Island, mainly to provision and to finish off the work to our watermaker. We met Leo’s friends Dan and Verena who were exceptionally kind to us with ferrying us around to chandlers, supermarkets, liquor stores and inviting us to their fabulous house for drinks and true BC nibbles, the famous smoked salmon, local bubbly which was fantastic and Dutch cheese!
Amelie arrived back in Port Sidney to have the watermaker membranes replaced and various other parts. Internet was strong so we caught up with as many people as we could and luckily watched the Rugby Premiership final with Exeter Chiefs sadly beaten by the mighty Saracens. The weather was foul, so we warmed the cabin and relaxed with reading and films.
The start of our next Canadian adventure was planned for the next day.