After a storming sail from St. Lucia to Porvenir in the San Blas Islands, where we beat 200nm in a day in Amelie, we checked in with immigration, navigation and the police. They were based in one house, all the rooms were bare except for a table, 3 chairs and a filing cabinet. No curtains, carpets and bare lightbulbs gave the formalities an austere atmosphere. Formalities were carried out in Spanish, not understood by Stephen, so sign language and broken English got us through. At the end of this process, our passports were stamped, Panamanian cruising permit issued together with the ZARPE (permission to travel to the next port) and relieved of $300.
We spent 10 days in Western Hollandes Cays, snorkelling (as diving is not permitted), partied onboard Amelie and other Oysters, celebrated Stephen's birthday on the beach watching the sunset and dancing to music. Life there was spent watching the Pelicans fishing around the yachts with the back drop of waving Coconut palms on the shore and of course, sun all day. The Kuna Indians regularly visited the Oysters, paddling in their dugouts, selling lobsters and fish for the BBQ plus their handmade Molas.
Saying goodbye to Paradise we sailed overnight to Shelter Bay marina, formely the US naval base, Fort Sherman (when the US operated the Panama Canal). We had a busy few days working on Amelie during the day and partying with the rest of the OWR fleet in the evening and at Fort San Lorenzo, where we had a magnificent Pirates' party and lunch, overlooking the Chagres river, entertained by a local dance troupe.
Amelie was measured for her canal transit. This is a legal requirement and she went from a 53' to a 60' yacht!!!! Preparations for transitting the canal included obtaining 4X38m mooring lines and a minimum of 3 additional crew to handle the lines.
We met our advisor, Roy, at the start of the canal, who was the lead advisor dealing with Debbe from Oyster regarding the Oyster fleet. Transitting the canal.Ships that go through the canal are attached to mules (trains) that pull them through the locks. Yachts are rafted in threes with the outside yachts passing two lines ashore to line handlers. The centre yacht (Amelie) provides propulsion and steerage and the outside yachts are passive. we were in the first raft as Roy wanted to control the passage of all the yachts.
The first day was spent going up the first 3 locks away from the Atlantic Ocean and into the Gatun Lake, where we spent the night.The lake proved to be a stunning sight, being a manmade lake created in the middle of a rainforest. We could hear Howling Monkeys and strongly advised not to swim off the boat because of Crocodiles.Early the next morning, Roy boarded Amelie and we motored 30 miles through the lake towards the last three locks. Amelie led the Oyster fleet into the Pacific Ocean with cheers from some of the OWR in the viewing area. We toasted our new ocean as we passed under the Bridge of Americas. We are a long way from Devon now.
Amelie anchored in Playitas, close to Panama City for a few days. Provisioning was required as our last was in Antigua. Retail was on the agenda as it is inexpensive. Frankie, our friendly taxi driver took us everywhere including places that we never wish to visit again. Belated Valentine's dinner in Trump Tower was memorable, food and cocktails great and another chance to wear THE red dress (10 years old and still looking good).
We set sail for Las Perlas, islands in the Gulf of Panama and spent several days in idyllic settings. Our favourite was Isla de San Jose, a private island who welcome visitors. The hotel Hacienda del Mar was empty and they served 28 Oyster owners and their crew from 9 Oysters in the bay, a tasty dinner. Macaws flew around during our pre dinner drinks. The amount of wildlife we saw in the Las Perlas was amazing - hoardes of pelicans, frigate birds, terns., dolphins, whales, sharks and turtles. Regrettably swimming was tricky due to the annual infestation of jellyfish who were holidaying in Las Perlas at the same time as us.
At first light following our dinner party at Hacienda del Mar we set sail for the Galapagos Islands (Archipielago de Colon). We had a great sail for the first 12 hours but then have spent the last 36 hours going through the Doldrums, mainly motoring. We now have some wind and currently 600 miles from the Galapagos Islands.
Crossing the equator - here we come!