We left Deshaies, Guadeloupe, early on the Sunday morning in a brisk wind and moderate sea state. We averaged 8 knots to Montserrat experiencing wind gusts up to 32 knots and rough seas around the North West Bluff of the island. Rain squalls followed us up the coast for an exhilarating ride. Amelie tends to lift her skirts and sprint in these conditions. Our first sight of the Soufriere Hills Volcano which devastated the southern part of the island in 1997 and again in 2010 rendered us speechless.

Throughout our stay the crater was covered in cloud and as it is still active gases and volcanic dust shrouded our view. Sinister and quiet, yet there had been three earthquakes during our second night, deep below the earth's crust. Evidence of a gigantic lava flow cascaded down to the sea and the shape of the southern part of the island has changed enormously. Babe took the southerly route and not only saw rooftops of Plymouth buried in the lava flow but the smell of sulphur 2 miles out to sea was extremely strong. Nature had claimed back her land.

Montserrat, unlike other Caribbean Islands, was settled by the Irish mainly Catholics fleeing injustice during the 15th century. There is a massive celebration on St. Patrick's Day which lasts for days and by all accounts a huge quantity of Guinness is consumed. This is the first island that we have visited over the past year that does not offer rum as their first tipple. We were offered a herb infused potent concoction by the lovely Sylvia which she knocked back as if she was drinking lemonade.The national dish is Goat Water which is Irish Stew made from goat rather than mutton.

We had a hilarious supper on board with Trish and Paul with Paul exhibiting his acrobatics on our guardrail and finding his dinghy was ankle deep in seawater......he'd left the plug out! Trish and Debbie were incapable of being of any assistance as we were doubled up in laughter.

The first day on land involved checking in and meeting our guide, Joe, for the Volcanic tour the next day. Instantly we found the people of Montserrat helpful and friendly. The island lost 6,000 inhabitants to emigration as the volcano had swallowed their homes but it seems they always come back, either as a visit or later on in their lives to settle down for retirement. We were informed that there is no unemployment as 5,000 people (2,000 of which are at school or college) have plenty of work to keep them busy. Our taxi driver, George, has built houses, does carpentry and still has the opportunity to visit his children in the UK. All in all, a hard working group of people with great pride for their island.

Alas the only thing we were disappointed in was the food and the wine selection but as Jon says " first world problem". This opinion changed on our last meal on the island but more of that later.

Neither Babe nor Amelie had courtesy flags so after checking in we strived to find one. Phone calls were made, taxi trips were taken and still we left empty handed. Visiting the Visitors centre gave us a chance to locate toy flags that Stephen with his sewing skills transformed into a legal flag. Paul and Stephen with their entrepreneurial minds planned to buy up the shop and sell them at a profit to the other boats in the anchorage. Beers got in the way of this plan!

The museum was a great way to learn about the history of the island and in particular Montserrat's involvement in the World Wars. 

The following day we were given a four hour tour of the devastation caused by the eruption but like a Phoenix, Montserrat has risen from the ashes. Before and after pictures of the island were a great tool for us to see the changes.  After eighteen years the jungle has claimed villages, roads, bridges, the airport and the only golf course.  The highlight of this tour was our visit to the volcano observatory and we were able to see first hand the real time monitoring on the volcano's level of activity. Tappi was engaging and informative as he went through with us the monitoring process which would be vital to keep everyone safe if things kick off again. Until 1997 Soufriere Hills Volcano had been quiet for four hundred years and when the authorities learned of the risk of imminent eruptions they evacuated people with notice to take belongings for a weekend. Many people did not return to their homes and as we were allowed to visit one home and a hotel, we could see it looked as if they had just left. The heat, acid and ash had wrecked roofs, twisted and melted metals but still the odd kettle and kitchen implements were thrown around, beds and mattresses upturned, clothes in the wardrobe and toiletries in the bathroom cabinet. Spooky experience. Our guide (recommended by Doyle's Cruising Guide) who had contacted us on VHF when we had arrived in the anchorage, failed to grasp that he had already sold us his tour and continued his sales pitch during the four hours we were with him - very irritating.

Our last day on the island was by far our favourite. We had a lazy start to the day with Elevenses with Paul and Trish which soon migrated to a premature toast to the sun being over the yardarm. M decided to play up, the engine failing to start so the Babes came to international rescue and we got to Olvestone House for lunch. This is Sir George Martin's former home and Beatle mania was to take over. Mother and daughter run this establishment and we discovered that the daughter trained at the Ashburton School of Cookery, Devon......small world. We enjoyed a wonderful meal from locally sourced food and homemade desserts, alas no Rose wine, the island had run out and it was nothing to do with us this time! Completely relaxing afternoon listening to Beatle's songs, singing and writing a Trip Advisor review of the restaurant set to the Beatle's song titles.Click here to view, it is hysterical and it also found favour with our host who treated us to a round of drinks. Unfortunately it was time to leave and with an alcohol fuelled whistle-stop visit to the supermarket we ended up yet again in a bar. We didn't want to leave and we were hanging onto every second. The party had finally come to a halt only to start again we hope when we reach Nevis.

Going back to the title, Paul had spent the day with our tour guide teasing him about the island's name by referencing our quest to find large rodents and questions about the island's rat population. When it got to the punchline he'd either heard it too many times before or he had little sense of humour. 

MONSTERRAT we love you.