Leaving the Babes, who were journeying on to the BVIs, we set sail for Nevis and St. Kitts. A downwind sail with gusty winds we made a good passage. During the sail we passed the Rock of Redonda, one mile long and a thousand feet high. This is a kingdom whose regents are writers, each successor being named from the literary world. At present there is a Pretender ruling as he is more fun than the actual successor. "It's a mad, mad world out there", Val would say.
Nevis pronounced Nee-vis or its Carib name, Oualie, meaning Land of Beautiful Waters is an island that has a wealth of history. Nevis was named by Christopher Columbus in 1493 as "Nuestra Señora de las Nieves", Our Lady of the Snows, as the island erupts out of the sea and resembles the snow-covered Spanish Pyrenees. Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson married a local Nevisian, Fanny Nisbet and Alexander Hamilton, who was one of the founding fathers of America, was born here and his likeness can still be seen on the 10$ bill. The Virginia settlers from Europe landed here before going onto America. Between the 1670s and 1800s, Portuguese Jews, fleeing from the Spanish Inquisition, built their settlement in Charlestown and at one time a quarter of the island's population was Jewish. A major earthquake in 1690 changed the shape of Nevis and wiped out Jamestown, where the Virginia Settlers had embarked. There is evidence of some activity under the sea approximately 100 metres from the shore causing the seawater to be much warmer in this area. The British colonised Nevis in 1628 exporting ginger, indigo, cotton and vegetables. 150 years later the island was well known in Europe as the Spa of the Caribbean due to the opulence of the huge houses, quality of life on the plantations and the warm mineral springs. We were introduced to the hot thermal baths by the former Bath Hotel where we soaked our feet in the 108*F waters. Tales of the waters curing rheumatism, gout and arthritis abound. French invasion was always a threat to the island and the British maintained defences and military personnel during this time, mainly on Saddle Hill. Nevis became independent together with St. Kitts in 1983.
Squalls of strong wind and lashing rain made the island look menacing as we approached with the huge Sombrero shaped mountain covered in cloud, dominating the landscape, Nevis Peak. We picked up a mooring and watched for a while, as initially it appeared we were too heavy for the mooring. It was late Thursday afternoon and we had missed the checking in time for Customs and Immigration, nevertheless after parties on Amelie and Bubbles with the added surprise of the Babes' company we decamped to a stunning beachside restaurant for supper. The friendly, welcoming restaurant owner introduced us to his family who had arrived from Mumbai for the opening of his establishment. Dancing and singing at the tops of our voices with some interesting moves within the string curtain produced hilarity for the other diners and it was recommended we returned the following evening for more!
Bubbles and Amelie checked in followed by Leo, Clive and Stephen attempting to diagnose why M wasn't working. Eventually the engine started by manual rather than electric starter means and the diagnosis was a defunct starter switch which we will need to order. A lively lunch on board Amelie after saying goodbye to the Babes and a short siesta before partying again. We danced to a live local band who kept the place rocking and the dance floor heaving.
Quiet day for most of us and then.......a Dutch gourmet evening on Bubbles with dancing on the aft deck to new and golden oldie music. Leo and Karin must have the best dance floor in the fleet of Oysters.
Maintenance on Amelie was a must, with Stephen involved in clearing our water systems and Debbie giving the cockpit and the stainless steel a spruce up. A trip ashore for internet and a walk around an extremely quiet Charlestown gave us a glimpse of the historic wooden and stone buildings, some in disrepair and boarded up, others revamped. A scruffy, tired charm exuded from the place. The evening revisited our traditional games evening on Sephina with the normal competitive streak and a fabulous supper.
Bubbles last day with us involved an island tour with our informative guide, John Paris (Ford to his friends). He told us that the Government has stipulated that the buildings in Charlestown are to be renovated historically. The "skirt and blouse" design of the buildings, which involves volcanic rock foundations and wooden structures, are slowly being brought back to life. Slavery was abolished on the island in 1834 and the grounds of the slave market are visible with plans to make it more of a tourist attraction.
The drive up into the hills was stunning with ruins around most corners. We visited a few plantation houses which have been made into cottage hotels and are a fantastic local employment scheme. The famous stone Montpelier Hotel (British Royals have stayed here) is a calm oasis of beauty with many of the old buildings and structures repaired and restored for use as dining areas, bedrooms, quiet reading and games rooms and bars. Leaving the property we saw Vervet Monkeys which had been brought to Nevis by the French as pets. There is a population of 20,000 monkeys to the 12,000 human inhabitants, they wreck the immature fruit crops of the farmers so although are tolerated as a tourist attraction are in fact a pest.
Hermitage Plantation (mainly in wood) was set up in 1640 and has the oldest surviving wooden house on the island, circa 1670. It is built of Ironwood and has been restored sympathetically. Wild donkeys roam this plantation as they were originally brought to Nevis to help haul and mill the sugar cane. Following the decline of the production of wet sugar (Muscovado sugar) in 1957, the Donkeys have been allowed to run free.
The Golden Rock Plantation is in the rainforest area of Nevis and has fantastic views of Nevis Peak (3,232 foot dormant volcano). This is a hiker's paradise and where we had a relaxed lunch in a private setting.
We drove through the Nisbet Plantation which has one of the largest hotels on the island. It is where Fanny Nisbet lived before marrying Nelson. Their marriage certificate is displayed in St. John's Fig Tree Anglican Church and shortly after we passed a poorly marked spring where Nelson took on fresh water for his ships. It was once a big outflow but nowadays a small, dingy pond.
We love the folklore on these islands and Nevis proved to have a sad one. The Eden Brown Estate, built in 1740 is haunted by a grieving bride to be, Julia Higgins. Her husband to be and his best man fell out and killed each other in a duel. So distraught she became a recluse, "Screamed until she died" and is buried on the plantation. It is owned by the government and does not welcome overnight guests!
Returning to Charlestown we were given a modern take on Nevis. Tourism and financial services with many international banks are the main source of economy to this tiny Isle.
Renewable energy has been invested in with a wind farm near the Four Seasons hotel. 90% of the water comes from underground wells and 10% from the numerous waterfalls which is stored in reservoirs. Social housing is evident, heavily subsidised by the government as long as the individuals have acquired a loan. For the rest of us we can receive Nevis and St. Kitts citizenship by investment if we buy new homes and villas.
Since the 1990s The Medical School of the Americas has brought in a good income with the students getting involved in the community. One of the most poignant signs seen on our journey was "Goodwill breeds good friendship" and this is the general feel of the island.
Flights from Europe and the USA are regular to St. Kitts with fast water-taxi connections to Nevis.
The natural clay in the soil saw many potteries being established in the 1960/1970s, alas only one has survived. Hopefully the increase in tourism will keep this one working.
Sport in the form of cricket and track athletics is typical of the Caribbean Islands and Nevis is no exception. However the younger Nevisians have found a passion in drag racing and with government backing have built a drag race track near the shore with stadium lights. This scheme has been successful in keeping the youngsters off the streets and providing an exciting community for them. The sport has exploded and there are many meets with other islands and connections with Miami.
7am the following morning we wished Bubbles fair winds and looking forward to seeing them later in the year.
St. Kitts (Christopher) is just over 9nm from Nevis and with a strong gusty easterly we belted across the bay and had good holding ground for our anchor in Deep Water Port. We were surrounded by a busy working dock, fishing port and the cruise liner terminal......always something going on. Confusion reigns in this joint sovereignty with Nevis regarding immigration, each official seems to have different ideas of entry and exit requirements. Nevertheless we were legal and we proposed to stay for a week.
St. Kitts' Carib name was Liamuiga, meaning fertile island, Columbus renamed it after his patron saint. In 1623, St. Kitts became the first British Caribbean colony and remained so ( despite a blood spilling chequered history) until 1983, with Princess Margaret handing over the islands to the independent government.
First impressions were not favourable as alighting in Port Zante, Basseterre on the only dinghy dock, was bordering on dangerous. Firstly you had to navigate a narrow channel with huge boulders just under the surface and secondly the "dock" was an old wooden crate with plastic barrels underneath to allow it to float. We were not allowed to tie up anywhere else......very welcoming attitude to visiting yachts, who per head spend more in port than the cruise liner guests.
We were informed of an alternative dock in the fishing port which was much closer to Amelie and neither of us got too wet on the transfer. It was also closer to the major stores plus the fishermen were gracious and kind, allowing us to tie our lines to their boats. Far better solution but what it means is that us yachties will spend less in the cruise terminal and more in the fishing port. St. Kitts, you have got to improve your facilities for visiting yachts!
Sephina and crew are Welsh and they rapidly found a Welsh flag fluttering outside a restaurant along the shoreline....El Fredos. Enthusiastically they encouraged us to join them for lunch where we had some of the best Creole food that we've tried. Welsh flags, tea towels and the soft lilt of the chef's accent together with dining with the Chief Prosecutor (the previous day it was the Foreign Minister) in a cafe setting. Fly screens surrounding the place kept the flies at bay which had invaded Amelie and Sephina. Ju and Debbie have become a successful death squad where these nasty insects are concerned.
Debbie arranged a games afternoon on the Sunday and we reminisced about our afternoons spent in the Coconut Beach Bar in Grenada. We toasted friendship with champagne and the Amelie G&Ts and stuffed ourselves with Tartiflette (French Mountain food), warm bread, salad and followed by homemade (yes, Debbie did make it without cheating) Malteser Cheesecake. Bingo, Battle Yahtzee and Karma (the polite title of a card game our kids introduced us to) was played with some of us being more successful than others, depending on the amount of booze we had drunk. Lots of laughter peeled across the bay from Amelie.
The 'fridge started to warm up so it was time to call out an expert. Stuart arrived and using our spares seems to have rectified the problem. M is still being manually started and Stephen's knuckles are taking the brunt with the starter cord. A visit to St. Maartens sooner than expected is on the agenda to solve these niggles.
We were boarded by the Coastguard on a training exercise for their new recruits early in the morning, certainly woke us up. Apart from the normal questions we were asked for details of our safety equipment on board plus firearms and weapons. Extremely polite and courteous they departed only to board another yacht in the vicinity.
Prior to leaving St. Kitts we embarked on an island tour using the scenic railway (locally the “Sugar Train’), a huge tourist attraction on the island. The railway was built between 1912 and 1928, for the purpose of transporting sugar cane across the island. The railway cars were built in Seattle, USA and they carted 40,000 tons of cane annually to waiting ships heading for London, UK. 60% of the island in that time was covered with sugar cane crops. The last production of sugar cane was in 2005 when the government decided that sugar cane export was losing money and all efforts were transferred into tourism, which is now their number one money earner.
Scenic is an appropriate name for the railway as we travelled for two hours along the Atlantic and Caribbean Sea coastline, passing small villages with the school children and roadside workers waving frantically at us. Crossing several bridges with Vervet monkeys swinging in the almond trees, sheep and goats chasing through the brush, glimpses of the rainforest with the silent giant erupting towards the clouds and listening to the singing of the Scenic Railway choir throughout the carriages. We returned to Basseterre to check out ready for our short sail to St. Eustatia (Statia).
St. Kitts didn't make a huge impression on us mainly due to the common rudeness ( apart from a few) we encountered during our eight days there. This was in contrast to Nevis who as the sister island, had a totally different attitude and everyone was engaging and helpful. Why is this? Who knows but we won't be returning to St Kitts in a hurry!